An excellent dinner hosted by friends Gavin and Gen. I’ve included the menu items interspersed throughout the notes. I won’t post too detailed impressions on the food, but in general they were good matches, especially the Salmon with the Champagne and the smoked Duck with the Pinot/Burgundy.
Smoked Salmon, mayonnaise and avocado
Franck Bonville Grand Cru BdB “Brut Selection” N.V – (Avize, Champagne):
Fine bead, nose of citrus, spice, chalk, sea spray, vanilla bean. Medium bodied palate shows a noticeable level of acid but it is restrained enough to refresh and provide a crisp mouth-feel rather than upset the balance. Length is good. A nice wine. 88/100
Zind-Humbrecht Riesling 2003 – (Turckheim, Alsace):
On the nose, apricot, smoke, peaches, some alcohol and phenolic characters sticking out. While the palate had an interesting texture to it, it also felt really flat and lacking in acid and the richness that I’ve heard ZH is known for. Probably a product of the vintage as well as this being one of the low level ZH Rieslings (still not cheap in Australia of course). A wine that provided a decent level of hard to pick options (with Gavin saying “Well it’s definately not Zind Humbrecht), but not a whole lot else. 81/100
Oremus Furmint 1998 – (Mandolas, Tokaji, Hungary):
Speaking of hard to pick options … a dry wine from the Tokaji region best known for their sweet wines. The nose shows aromas of funk, spice, oxidative characters and ripe bananas. The structure of the palate is sound – although it is dry and oxidative again. The length is actually quite good. An interesting experience. 87/100
Château Laffitte-Ceston “Sec” 2002 – (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, Southwest France):
Made from Petit-Manseng grapes. Aromas of passionfruit, pineapple, kiwi and floral overtones. The palate has prominent acid and also seems a touch alcoholic or spirity. Again, interesting and something I was glad to get the chance to try. 86/100
Black Pudding in Pastry
Smoked duck and raspberry sauce
Michel Gros “Clos des Reas” 1er Cru Monopole 1998 – (Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy):
Stalks and boot polish initially which did blow off to reveal a perfumed, slightly floral nose as well as primary notes of raspberry and strawberry. Took on some truffle and undergrowth notes as it breathed in the glass. Palate is delicate and elegant and fine tannins are present and providing structure. Length is excellent with the finish persisting for quite some time. My Wine Of The Night. 92/100
Salad with vegetables and cheese
Lamb with mushroom sauce, carrot and potato
Chateau Branaire 1989 – (St. Julien, Bordeaux):
Just the slightest fading around the rim, but a deep youthful crimson core. The nose was showing cedar, cassis, pencil shavings, a touch of florality and dusty notes. Palate has good structure and balance. A fine wine. 90/100
John Duval “Plexus” 2003 Shiraz Grenache Mataro – (Barossa Valley, South Australia):
The first vintage from this new label by ex Penfolds (and Grange) winemaker John Duval. The nose stands out against the previous wines. Juicy, upfront notes of blackberry, blueberry, pepper and spices, liquorice and well integrated French oak. Palate is quite well balanced and I didn’t think it was showing its 14.5% alcohol. Soft tannins and a nice long finish. 90/100
Seppelt “Great Western” Shiraz 1997 – (Grampians, Victoria):
Nose closed up about 5 minutes after I opened it. Was given some time to breath in the bottle and a decanter. Nose remained quite closed but showed a slight floral lift along with pepper, cherry and some very restrained oak. The medium intensity palate shows sweet fruit and good length. Still very youthful and tightly coiled. Is it going anywhere good? Too hard for me to call. 87/100
Cheese Plate
Fig with prosciutto
Bread and butter pudding
Brown Brothers “Patricia” Noble Riesling 2002 – (King Valley, Victoria):
Current release of this wine. Deep amber colour belies its youth. Pears dominate the nose that also shows apricot, citrus peel, honeycomb and marmalade. The palate is very sweet and ripe, but I thought the acid flowed through the length of the palate and was enough to avoid being cloying to my tastes. It finishes crisp and long. The back label says that it can be cellared for 4-6 years and while it may be possible, I think it is drinking so well now that it would be a waste of time to wait. Great value for money at around $20AUD for a half bottle. 92/100
A really good night – good company, food and wines. There were two votes for the Burgundy as the best wine of the night and two votes for the Brown Brother Patricia. I thought they were both excellent but would (and did) go for the Burgundy.
Nice write up Cam, I will definitely be on the look out for the Patricia Noble Riesling, sounds right up my alley.
The John Duval “Plexus” 2003 Shiraz Grenache Mataro sounds interesting, too… nice summary, wish I could have enjoyed these great pairings.
I’ve always wondered about Great Western shiraz, your description reminds me of the Best’s shiraz in my cellar, will it improve? Who knows. While I’m writing this a friend has walked in and thinks the same thing. But I don’t mind Mt Langi Ghiran shiraz, a near neighbour. Sorry you didn’t enjoy the Alsatian wine, that’s one of my favourite areas.
Mt Langi seem to make good wines, the ’03 Langi Shiraz I tried recently was excellent.
I had two Alsatian wines (a gewurztraminer and a pinot gris) at a big dinner at Tetsuya’s last weekend, one of them was not so good, and the other one was just amazing.