Appellation Australia

A wonderful dinner on Saturday night at Tetsuya’s in Sydney with my family. Food, service and atmosphere were impossible to fault even though my expectations were sky high after such a wonderful experience on my first/last visit last year.

The menu was only changed very slightly from my last visit in May last year, but when the dishes are this good, that is perfectly fine by me.

Sweet Corn Soup with Basil Ice Cream

then

Pacific oysters with Rice Vinegar

Tartare of Tuna on Sushi Rice with Avocado

Tuna Marinated in Soy and Mirin

Soft Smoked Ocean Trout with Asparagus

Marinated NZ Scampi with Chicken Parfait and Walnut

with

Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne 1998

Pale straw-yellow in colour with a very fine bead and only a very small amount of mousse. Had a lightly scented nose of toast, lemon, vanilla and slate. There is a fresh core of focused, balanced acidity to the palate and the length is excellent with lingering flavour, but it is perhaps just lacking the level of clarity and layers of flavour that the stunning 1996 had in order to take the step from excellent to exceptional. Enjoy over the next 8-10 years.

92/100

Confit of Petuna Tasmanian Ocean Trout with Konbu, Daikon and Fennel and Seasonal Green Salad

Ravioli of Queensland Spanner Crab with Tomato and Basil Vinaigrette

with

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 1999

Light yellow colour. It took a little while for the nose to open up on this, but when it did it provided the kind of interesting and newly revealed aromas with each sniff that I would have been happy to sit and smell it over an entire night.

Aromas of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, lemon rind, straw, hints of star anise and very light toast and smoke. Delicate and pure on the palate initially, it built a small amount of richness and weight in the glass across the excellent length, but stayed in balance and maintained its purity of flavour. This proved to be a very good match for the food, complimenting each other well rather than skewing the focus one way.

I would suggest that it will start to enter a mature drinking phase around 2010 and continue improving for another 5 years afterward.

92/100

Twice Cooked De-Boned Spatchcock with Braised Daikon and Bread Sauce

Grilled Wagyu Beef with Asian Mushrooms and Lime Jus

with

Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reservee 1979

I was concerned about how this would show, as it was bought at auction with unknown provenance (but with excellent fill level) and also wasn’t sure if it would complement the food. It was perhaps not the right occasion to take the risk, but it has been said that fortune can favour the brave!

Opened with a brilliantly layered, complex nose from the very start, with burnt butter, black cherry, smoked meat, damp soil, floral notes, tea and mixed spices. The elegant palate has lovely texture, with subtle spice and delicate sweet fruit. Only a touch not long enough to reach toward perfection, but a brilliant wine regardless. Almost more in the mould of Burgundy on the palate, it was perfect for the food to my tastes.

Fully mature and while it didn’t show any sign of decline over the hour and a half it was enjoyed, I would certainly open it now or in the near future if you are holding onto any bottles.

96/100

Pineapple and Yoghurt Sorbet

Strawberry Shortcake

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream with White Beans and Dates

Floating Island with Praline and Vanilla Bean Anglaise

with

Inniskillin Vidal Icewine 1996

A deep amber colour was briefly worrying, but upon my first sniff I could tell that there was no reason for concern. Soft toffee was the initial aroma and this was followed by marmalade, cherry, vanilla, peach and a espresso note in the background. Refreshing and clean rather than cloying on the palate, with great focus to the integrated acid counterbalancing the medium level of sweetness. Has impressive length and it was genuinely delicious to drink.

93/100

Petit Four with Coffee

I can’t wait to go back!